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    Originally posted by DaytimeDreamer View Post
    A frame of lag is 16.6ms. A CRT has about 0.5 to 1ms of lag so 1/16 of a frame max. You can consider a CRT absolutely lag free. Where did you get this info?
    Everyone knows that, I'm disputing the video source. The Mario games have varying degrees of lag coded into them.

    Tip: Start reading this post at “UPDATE June 17th 2016” below and then continue with the newer updates. UPDATE January 3rd 2018: Tests of SNES Classic Mini controller connected to PC using Raphnet’s low-latency USB adapter: An input lag investigation UPDATE June 18th 2017: Additional tests showing effect on input lag from using shaders and from the new raw input driver : An input lag investigation UPDATE May 2nd 2017: Input lag on real SNES console on a CRT TV: An input lag investigation U...




    Indeed - one or two frames is sticky ground for fighting games. My old Toshiba LCD had something like 55ms of lag which made the basketball bonus stage on XBLA 3S a mess. For these things it's mostly a case of native hardware or go home.

    My RetroArch setup is an absolute best case scenario at one additional frame of input latency for all cores (the important ones, anyway). It's acceptable. However I'm seeing reports of between five and seven frames for the Pi3 which is absolutely not acceptable. I'd like to see some tests on 68000 based emulation as that tends to play well across mostly every hardware config that it's thrown on.
    Last edited by dataDave; 16-04-2018, 23:34.

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      Ah, ok. You're talking about input lag built into the game's engine. Completely different topic, I get ya.

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        Originally posted by DaytimeDreamer View Post
        Ah, ok. You're talking about input lag built into the game's engine. Completely different topic, I get ya.
        ...and of course the unavoidable input latency provided by the emulation layer (which varies across emu cores and hardware configs).

        There's a surprising amount of drama in those findings I linked to. The same guy who does the testing managed to shave a whole frame off of the SNES9X and bSNES cores with some snooping around in the video refresh code, yet when brought to Higan himself he brushed it off because of some 'authenticity' reasoning - it's almost as if he was jealous that some third-party managed to pull off something he'd let slip by.

        Regardless, RetroArch versions of SNES9X and bSNES are equipped with this enhancement.

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          Hey all, so Im still waiting on my RGB-Pi stuff.

          A question regarding PSX folder structure, what formats work? Can games stay within archives?

          Cheers,
          Dan.

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            Originally posted by redstar_dan View Post
            Hey all, so Im still waiting on my RGB-Pi stuff.

            A question regarding PSX folder structure, what formats work? Can games stay within archives?

            Cheers,
            Dan.
            .bin and .cue mate. You can find convertors on the internet should you need them. I would link one, but suffering with bronchitis at the mo so don't feel like searching
            3DS FC (updated 2015): 0447-8108-3129

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              Can the bin and cue per title, reside in an archive? Or do they all need to be loose in a folder.
              Is a cue optional, or does it need it?

              Cheers

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                Cue and bin in a folder in the pcsx ROMs folder. Standard retroarch setup. Yes, you need .cue.
                3DS FC (updated 2015): 0447-8108-3129

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                  What's the sound like out of the 3.5mm jack? Has anyone added a DAC board to theirs?

                  I'll be jumping in soon - my next issue is stacking everything and making it look nice. I'll have the Pi3 with a RetroTink RGB and then a sound card on top of that.

                  [MENTION=2697]dvdx2[/MENTION] - good call with the iBuffalo pads. I've watched some reviews and they seem absolutely bang on. The problem being I'm only finding 'Buffalo' variants for cheap on eBay, are these the same or are they dodgy copies?

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                    Cheers for the help Escape to 88, appreciated.
                    Dave, whats a Retrotink?

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                      Originally posted by redstar_dan View Post
                      Dave, whats a Retrotink?
                      A Pi Hat that comes in various options for different video outputs. Benefits from 24-bit colour as opposed to 18-bit found in the other solutions.

                      RetroTINK helps connect retro consoles to modern displays and more. Our line of products converts legacy video formats with high quality and minimal visual distortion for the most authentic experience.




                      The difference is minor, or maybe more than minor if you have a particular set of hues running parallel to one another in certain games (like Yoshi's Island's sky gradients). If I'm going to spend money on this stuff I'd better go all-out as it's such a bastard getting stuff past the wife.

                      I'll be getting the RetroTink RGB which simply features a series of BNC connectors for connecting directly to the BVM.

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                        Would that be used in combo with RGB-Pi?

                        What options are available for Lightguns? Can a G-Con be used with a ps2 adapter?
                        Any good usb lightguns that work on crts?

                        Ta

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                          Originally posted by redstar_dan View Post
                          Would that be used in combo with RGB-Pi?

                          What options are available for Lightguns? Can a G-Con be used with a ps2 adapter?
                          Any good usb lightguns that work on crts?

                          Ta
                          Retrotink is made by Mike Chi and is an alternative to RGB Pi. It can be bought with a variety of outputs. Currently the version of Lakka used with it only supports RGUI if I'm not mistaken, which doesn't make much difference unless you like pretty interfaces. I think the Retrotink is marginally superior and Mike has really thought about how to get the best out of it when you hear him interviewed, had I not owned an RGB-Pi and Pi 2Scart I would have probably gone for it. What I have suits me though, and it's horses for courses and the end of the day.
                          Last edited by Escape-To-88; 18-04-2018, 01:23.
                          3DS FC (updated 2015): 0447-8108-3129

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                            Here we go again: Does anyone know of any quick and easy GPIO controller input option? I'd love one of these, but not sure if the RetroTink will fit inside. RGB-Pi is definitely not an option due to no GPIO daisy-chaining.



                            The plywood version could easily have the BNC holes cut out of it I suppose.

                            This is suddenly turning into a big project.
                            Last edited by dataDave; 18-04-2018, 13:55.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by dataDave View Post
                              Here we go again: Does anyone know of any quick and easy GPIO controller input option? I'd love one of these, but not sure if the RetroTink will fit inside. RGB-Pi is definitely not an option due to no GPIO daisy-chaining.



                              The plywood version could easily have the BNC holes cut out of it I suppose.

                              This is suddenly turning into a big project.
                              Does it have to be GPIO? I haven't watched the video, but just a thought, but couldn't you just put the pi inside the stick base and build it around the USB controller out. If you pick up one of the cheap usb finger boards you can build it around that potentially - basically how everyone builds the usb Pi sticks on eBay, you just putting the unit inside the base rather than outside if that makes sense.
                              3DS FC (updated 2015): 0447-8108-3129

                              Comment


                                The main reason I'm interested in the GPIO controller is to minimise the input latency even further. It looks pretty easy to build.

                                I've emailed them to see if there is any space in there for a hat once the stick is in place. My neighbour has a huge workshop so I can use his drill press to easily cut the holes.

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