PVM Monitor

[dataDave]

Wow. Just been to collect the screen. There was no way to test it so he let me just take it (I'll pay him later). The flight case was also included!

[dataDave]

Just tested it out. Needs a slight yoke rotation but besides that it's immaculate. Not a single mark on it, not even any dust - the same goes for the flight case. There's no way I'm taking out the power board, it'd be a crime. I'd be interested to see how many hours it's done but I don't think you can with this model.

I'm not really noticing any difference between 800TVL and 600TVL. I'd have to have the both side by side.

[dataDave]

I sorted out the geometry on the PVM and everything looks wonderful. Although with all the plugging and unplugging it seems that the red BNC socket is failing, probably due to age and lack of use. I have to twist the connector around to get a connection. Compressed air isn't working. An easy fix - so when it finally does totally die on me I can get to work with whipping out that Q-board and replacing all the sockets. If anything all of this is a great way of learning electronics. Everything is so modular and easy to access. I reckon if I could go back and get my hands on both of those units that turned up bashed I could easily combine the best of both into a good condition unit.

It does seem that the scan lines with 600TVL are less pronounced. Which is great! It's actually easier on the eyes after an hour or two of gaming. You come away from the BVM feeling like your eyeballs have been microwaved. This is also a great reason to keep the BVM around. I'm still looking for a G-board donor. If anyone sees any faulty units anywhere otherwise destined for scrap please let me know.

[importaku]

If the socket is not making good connection chances are it’s oxidization especially if like you say it hasn’t been used much. buy some electrical contact cleaning spray it will fix that for you. Stuff is great to have in the toolbox.

[dataDave]

If the socket is not making good connection chances are it’s oxidization especially if like you say it hasn’t been used much. buy some electrical contact cleaning spray it will fix that for you. Stuff is great to have in the toolbox.

I have some already from the WD-40 people. Specifically for sensitive components and circuitry.

It doesn't work - you know why? Because the fault is with the cable. All the other colours on the lead pass a stable signal into that socket, as does my Wii component lead. Phew!! Now onto RGC for a replacement. I wouldn't have expected any of their cables to just stop working like that...

[dvdx2]

I have some already from the WD-40 people. Specifically for sensitive components and circuitry.

It doesn't work - you know why? Because the fault is with the cable. All the other colours on the lead pass a stable signal into that socket, as does my Wii component lead. Phew!! Now onto RGC for a replacement. I wouldn't have expected any of their cables to just stop working like that...

Thought that. I have had 2 faulty bnc-scart leads from them before, with the exact same thing happening (one colour going wonky). The second one wasn’t even offered a replacement. I’ll have to post a pic of the wiring/soldering (awful). Don’t get their praise and I wouldn’t buy another thing from them. Go to cool novelties for a great (if abit short), scart to bnc lead.

[importaku]

Ah well that’s good it isn’t borked cables are a lot easier to replace.

[dvdx2]

https://coolnovelties.co.uk/coolnovelties/amstrad-video-cables/262-sony-pvm-bnc-monitor-to-scart-adapter-breakout-cable.html

[dvdx2]

I sorted out the geometry on the PVM and everything looks wonderful. Although with all the plugging and unplugging it seems that the red BNC socket is failing, probably due to age and lack of use. I have to twist the connector around to get a connection. Compressed air isn't working. An easy fix - so when it finally does totally die on me I can get to work with whipping out that Q-board and replacing all the sockets. If anything all of this is a great way of learning electronics. Everything is so modular and easy to access. I reckon if I could go back and get my hands on both of those units that turned up bashed I could easily combine the best of both into a good condition unit.

It does seem that the scan lines with 600TVL are less pronounced. Which is great! It's actually easier on the eyes after an hour or two of gaming. You come away from the BVM feeling like your eyeballs have been microwaved. This is also a great reason to keep the BVM around. I'm still looking for a G-board donor. If anyone sees any faulty units anywhere otherwise destined for scrap please let me know.

Any updates on the pvm dave? Everything work out ok?

[dataDave]

Any updates on the pvm dave? Everything work out ok?

Yep. All good so far, thanks pal. No updates as I've just not had the time to get the camera out for proper 1/15 shots.

Started playing FFVII after patching my ISOs with the re-translation. Feels surreal playing it on real hardware.

I'm still somewhat eager to get the BVM back up and running. If you ever hear of any 14" units getting scrapped please let me know. I'll pay good money for working PSU boards.

[dvdx2]

Managed to snag an 600 TVL Olympus OEV143 (essentially a pvm 14M2MD) with a nice dark tint crt. Love rebrands, so cant wait to get this up on the testing bench for calibration!

[Strider]

I'm still struggling to find one of these. Was planning to pick one up today but it has a faulty power button that's putting me off. Does anyone know of any good places outside of eBay? I've tried Giles but he doesn't have any in stock.

[Escape-To-88]

Might be looking to offload a BVM soon. It's only 14" mind.

[Strider]

Might be looking to offload a BVM soon. It's only 14" mind.

Managed to source one now.
However, I can't get my modded N64 or standard Dreamcast to work via RGB. Any ideas?
The Dreamcast plug I have looks a bit **** (hardly any teeth in the scart) so maybe that's why.

[ExMosquito]

You’re the editor of a premier retro magazine and you don’t know the pinout of euro-scart?? Tut tut