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    Originally posted by dataDave View Post
    Are you getting a rolling picture? Anything at all? When I was new to PVMs I struggled for about three seconds before spamming the various input and sync buttons on the front.
    I'm getting a rolling picture with the N64 but absolutely nothing with the Dreamcast.

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      Originally posted by Strider View Post
      I'm getting a rolling picture with the N64 but absolutely nothing with the Dreamcast.
      What’s your pvm model number?

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        Originally posted by dvdx2 View Post
        What’s your pvm model number?
        It's a PVM-20M2E

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          Any thoughts on flyback transformer whine? I use my PVM-20M2MDE every day to watch TV ('cause I'm old-school like that...) & it did a phase of it a couple of years ago & has started to again. Which is making me think I should save it for the old consoles

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            Whilst not a quite a pvm, i hooked up the RGB-PI to a 19” Illyama crt monitor via an old xrgb 2 line doubler unit, last night. After a few hours of tweaking (mainly colour temp, brightness, contrast and geometry), I got a really nice accurate image, looking something like a trinitron 600-800 liner (SLG-3000 for scanlines) You can get the geometry pretty much spot on with these monitors too.

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              Originally posted by Strider View Post
              It's a PVM-20M2E
              That’s quite peculiar then, that model shouldn’t be picky about sync type.

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                Originally posted by roachie View Post
                Any thoughts on flyback transformer whine? I use my PVM-20M2MDE every day to watch TV ('cause I'm old-school like that...) & it did a phase of it a couple of years ago & has started to again. Which is making me think I should save it for the old consoles
                Got a toothpick handy? Possible fix here, from big Bob.

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                  Originally posted by Strider View Post
                  It's a PVM-20M2E

                  I’d change the dc scart lead as that monitor should work fine with it. Regarding the n64, it could be the mod, or the lead. Take a pic of the front control panel in operation and your hookup at the rear. What consoles work?

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                    Noooooooooooooooooooooo!
                    I've been playing on the PVM and it's started to show a yellow tint on the right hand side. It's a flickering effect and only appears to affect half the screen. I did have the PVM on for ages today, so I'm wondering if that's something to do with it?
                    I turned the machine off for about an hour and it was fine, but within ten minutes it came back.
                    I'm using a pnc cable from retrogaming cables.

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                      Sounds like it needs a re-cap.

                      Can you hear any clicking/tapping/whining coming from inside the chassis when it's powered on?

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                        Originally posted by dataDave View Post
                        Sounds like it needs a re-cap.

                        Can you hear any clicking/tapping/whining coming from inside the chassis when it's powered on?
                        Nothing at all.

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                          A re-cap should fix your woes then. Time to find someone local, or learn some soldering and CRT safety procedures. Unfortunately maintenance comes as part of the package with these things.

                          Savon-Pat (ex-Sony tech) offers capacitor kits which come with everything you need - it's only a dozen or so caps I believe. It should be a simple job for an old TV repair technician, or practically anyone savvy at all with electronics.

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                            Originally posted by dataDave View Post
                            A re-cap should fix your woes then. Time to find someone local, or learn some soldering and CRT safety procedures. Unfortunately maintenance comes as part of the package with these things.

                            Savon-Pat (ex-Sony tech) offers capacitor kits which come with everything you need - it's only a dozen or so caps I believe. It should be a simple job for an old TV repair technician, or practically anyone savvy at all with electronics.
                            Annoyingly no one in my local area would touch a crt when i had issues with that.
                            The issue happened when i plugged in my this is cool saturn. Could that be the issue or is it just coincidence?

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                              I'm not a technician myself, so I couldn't tell you sorry. Probably coincidence, likely the act of frequently switching sources around has triggered one of the caps.

                              You could try and find someone online who will re-cap. The problem there is you'd have to dismantle the entire chassis and courier them your boards. It's not impossible, just incredibly daunting. If it's any help these things are actually designed for maintenance - and self-discharge on power down. It's always safer to manually discharge the tube on top of this though, obviously.

                              You've got an absolutely amazing set. Get it fixed! Don't do anything impatient or rash. I've got my BVM in a flight case (the one that came free with my replacement PVM) and it's currently being used as a corner table with a lamp on it. I'm just waiting for a power board to surface and then I can switch it back around for the PVM. I'm as cack-handed as it gets with maintenance, but I've managed to slowly teach myself around the inner workings of these things quite well. I reckon you should take a whole day out one day to open it up and have a nosey, just research the various safety precautions for your own peace of mind. You won't harm yourself unless you act like a total prat on purpose. The main thing is to not do any further damage to the unit.

                              You should probably ask what others think on the CRT gaming reddit. They are extremely knowledgeable and have seen everything.

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                                Before I would do any maintenance I would try a different bnc-scart lead. Let me guess the one you use is from retro gaming cables?

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