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Another SFC '2-Chip or not 2-Chip' Thread

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    Another SFC '2-Chip or not 2-Chip' Thread

    Looking at picking up a Super Famicom while I'm still in Japan and can get them cheapish. But, I've got stuck in a rabbit hole of 1Chip vs 2Chip video output comparisons...

    I don't mind paying extra for a 1Chip if it means improved image quality - I've already got an SFC RGB cable and I'll be using it with a broadcast monitor. However I've read from comment threads on assorted websites that some games end up looking worse from the increased sharpness, and in some cases actually have missing visual effects when not played on the 2Chip original. So far though I've found absolutely no examples illustrating these points.

    What do you all reckon is the best non-modded option? Or is it all just splitting hairs and I won't think about it a jot once I'm actually playing the thing?
    Last edited by danstan21; 12-11-2020, 07:25.

    #2
    Best way for an answer is to post a wrong one....

    In my opinion it makes no difference if your using a crt TV, you may see a difference if using a pvm/bvm, even then unless you know what your missing you won't see anything.
    Last edited by beecee; 20-11-2020, 08:43.

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      #3
      If you like how sharp SFC games can look using an emulator, then you'll probably be really happy with a 1-Chip. I can clearly see a strong boost in sharpness using my 1-Chip. I would also agree with people who say the 1-Chip can make some graphical details look too severe, whereas the standard SFC has a little bit of softness to the image that blends the pixels more.

      There are even people who dislike standard RGB and prefer the softness of Composite, so taste varies when it comes to how someone might want retro[8 & 16-bit] games to look. I'm pretty sure that people who are in love with PVM/BVMs would probaly really appreciate a 1-Chip SFC.
      Last edited by Leon Retro; 14-11-2020, 13:12.

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        #4
        I've got a 1CHIP with an RGB bypass amplifier to make it look even clearer and well... Yeah, it kinda does look like an emulator.

        In terms of pixel peeping you'll definitely notice a difference even on a consumer set but is it worth the extra cost and effort to track one down? Probably not, unless you're a nut like me. I've got a launch SFC too and while the image looks softer it's far from poor.

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          #5
          I wouldnt worry about it, I use an SFC on a pro monitor and sure sometimes you can see jailbars. What's the point in aiming for perfection using old analog devices.

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            #6
            Thanks for the advice chaps. I ended up doing what any sensible person would and buying one of each to compare.

            On a related note, what's the opinion of everyone with regards voltage converters and Japanese consoles in the UK? Actual 240v -> 100v converters seem very rare / pricey, while US standard 240v -> 110v converters are dime a dozen. I don't mind forking out to preserve the lifespan of the console, but again internet consensus is non-existent.
            Last edited by danstan21; 20-11-2020, 08:12.

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              #7
              For a SFC, I’d just use a UK MD1 PSU if you have one, or a modern day quality replacement if not, something like https://en.retrogamesupply.com/colle...-super-famicom

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                #8
                Originally posted by danstan21 View Post
                Looking at picking up a Super Famicom while I'm still in Japan and can get them cheapish. But, I've got stuck in a rabbit hole of 1Chip vs 2Chip video output comparisons...

                I don't mind paying extra for a 1Chip if it means improved image quality - I've already got an SFC RGB cable and I'll be using it with a broadcast monitor. However I've read from comment threads on assorted websites that some games end up looking worse from the increased sharpness, and in some cases actually have missing visual effects when not played on the 2Chip original. So far though I've found absolutely no examples illustrating these points.

                What do you all reckon is the best non-modded option? Or is it all just splitting hairs and I won't think about it a jot once I'm actually playing the thing?
                I'm sure you've got enough answers by now but having owned a non-1chip, 1chip 01 and the last 03 revision I agree to some extent with @beecee when it says it makes no difference on a CRT; I'd say very little difference, I've used the various units on PVMs, BVMs, consumer sets, arcade monitors via adapters and my plasma sets via an OSSC.I'd actually argue it's far more about the way your specific set is setup - and very few peoples' is calibrated correctly in the first place making it all a moot point.

                I think we can probably agree (or not) that owning a 1 chip and getting the best possible picture to the nth degree is for those of us who are obsessive. I was in that camp and nearly picked up a Snes Jr to mod 'just to compare', in the end I went with a completely different way with a Super NT and couldn't be happier. The bottom line is it makes no real difference. The games are ace, there is minor softness as I recall between revisions and some almost invisible junk caused on the top of screens in certain titles on an 03. When I'm play with the NT now, having sold all the rest, not once do I think - or care - of the absolute minimal differences between the chips' output. If we were talking about composite vs RGB that's of course a different story but I'm sure you'll be happy with just playing the thing, as the SNES is utterly ace of course.
                Last edited by Escape-To-88; 20-11-2020, 11:24.
                3DS FC (updated 2015): 0447-8108-3129

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by mmmonkey View Post
                  For a SFC, I’d just use a UK MD1 PSU if you have one, or a modern day quality replacement if not, something like https://en.retrogamesupply.com/colle...-super-famicom
                  Yeah, I'd considered one of those (I don't own an MD or its PSU) though I've also got a JP Saturn currently hooked up via a cheap American voltage converter. It works fine, but the converter does get hot... and there's no (cheap) power substitute for that since PSU is inside the console. Wondering whether the most economical long-term option is investing in a quality Japan-specific voltage adapter and running an extension cable from it to plug both it and the SFC into.

                  Originally posted by Escape-To-88 View Post
                  very few peoples' is calibrated correctly in the first place making it all a moot point. I think we can probably agree (or not) that owning a 1 chip and getting the best possible picture to the nth degree is for those of us who are obsessive.
                  Oof. Guilty on both fronts!

                  When I'm play with the NT now, having sold all the rest, not once do I think - or care - of the absolute minimal differences between the chips' output. [...] I'm sure you'll be happy with just playing the thing, as the SNES is utterly ace of course.
                  Yes, I suspect this is true. It's not even going to be my primary way of playing the big hitters - I already have a Classic Mini set up in the other room. It's just missing too many lesser-known titles.
                  Last edited by danstan21; 22-11-2020, 10:12.

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                    #10
                    Just in case anyone comes across this thread looking for answers in the future: researching Saturn PSU components brings up that US and JP Saturn consoles have identical power supplies - they're all built for 100-120V input. This is actually written on the PCB, though info printed elsewhere on the JP console/cord just states 100V.

                    So, no need to buy expensive specialist equipment for 100V output for a JP Saturn. (I'll be sticking with the bog-standard US stepdown I have).

                    SFC is a different story, but external power supply means easy to find substitutes. For that I'll be going with the one posted earlier in the thread - thanks mmmonkey.
                    Last edited by danstan21; 24-11-2020, 05:59.

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