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**gunrock** · 18-05-2007, 13:10

Originally posted by Link83 View Post

...Well the questions may be not that original, but anyway, here goes...

Ok. Hit it.

-I know the Xbox has had a number of revisions, so which one is the best to get?

Any of them. Later ones should be a little quieter (better heatsink, no fan on the GPU). My 1.4 Crystal Xbox DVD drive has just died yet my version 1.0 Xbox with thr rubbishy Thomson drive is still going strong.

-Which has the best DVD Drive?

Google it. I can't remember. Thomson are reputedly the worst, though.

-I have read that Panzer Dragoon Orta will not run in 480p on certain Xbox's, is this true and if so which ones?

Never heard this. Or is this a PAL version issue?

-I have also read that the Xbox's RGB Scart output is quite poor - is this correct and if so why? and is it worse than the composite output?

Compared to the PS1 or Dreamcast, yes it's a bit dull. Still much better than composite, though.

-I would like to get my console modded in some way - not to play any pirate games, but simply for the media centre abilities, enabling 480p, and possibly emulation such as MAME. What would I need for this?:-
-What size of Hard Drive would you recommend?
-Would I need a chip such as the Xecuter 3 or just a Softmod?
-Whats does the Xecuter enable you to do that a Softmod cant?
-Is there anyone that still offers an Xbox modding service?

If you don't want to put games on the HD, then the original one will do.

A Modchip will allow to more easily recover if something goes wrong. Also should allow multi-region DVD viewing and playing import games. A softmod doesn't, although I think you can get a DVD playing software that allows this.

You can usually switch off a modchip which allows to go onto Xboxlive if you want. Don't know how much that's worth. Does anybody still play Xbox 1 online?

I played some Marvel Ultimate Alliance on Xbox 1 over live at Christmas but the lobbies were a bit empty.

**charlesr** · 18-05-2007, 13:26

My softmod turns off live when enabled. I can boot without it by pressing the CD drawer instead of power and it turns off the softmod thus letting me go on live and play Rallisport Challenge 2 against the other 3 people who are still playing.

Mine's a PAL Xbox V1.1 (they go up to 1.6) and it has XBMC installed on it. It plays all region DVDs and games. It's had the ntsc video patch done so it can display prog scan on everything.

Don't get a V1.0 (for some reason I can't remember).

The original machine state and eprom state is all backed up on the HDD somewhere so if I ever need to restore it, I can.

Emulators and Mame all run off DVD, so no need for a new HDD.

It can stream photo slideshows and videos off my PC which is nice.

**smouty** · 18-05-2007, 13:50

The v1.4 are probably the best version not only for the reasons above but also as they have a better video encoder. After modding the soften filter can be disabled anyway to improve the display. Avoid the v1.6 if possible due to crap DVD drives and slower RAM. They are also a little harder to mod.
The best drive is the Samsung as it is the only one that can read CD-R.
To softmod you will need a compatible game and the relevant files on a memory card. You may as well go for a chip as the price will be about the same and will make it so much easier if you do decide to upgrade the HD.
For 480p you will also need a component cable not an RGB one.
If you are in or around London/Hants area I can do it for you.

**dannywhac** · 18-05-2007, 15:45

Just to add to everyone's knowledge -
I think it's the xbox revision 1.2 that is more likely to have a Samsung drive although it's pot luck - one of me Thomsons tho' would read some cd-r's...
The drive types are (from memory) Thomson, Hitachi and Samsung with the vast majority of the drive's being Thomson.
Revision 1.0 boxes have the gpu fan, revision 1.6 and 1.6b boxes cannot have the ram upgrade done to 'em, basically meaning that some of the mame files (mainly the ones requiring a .chd file) and other console games won't run on them (as you can't ram mod them), although this doesn't detract from the 1000's of games you can run!
If you're going to stream media from your PC to the xbox and run emulators from disc then you can stay with the standard HD, if you travel round a bit with your job or take your box over to friends houses alot then I'd recommend a slightly bigger HD (40Gb or so - will fit a spank load of divx's, emulators etc on it). And go with a chip - as smouty says it's a bit more reliable - maybe an Xecuter 2.6 unless you want the bells and whistles of the Xecuter 3....
And yes - the RGB is a tad on the dull side.
Just to add to smouty's offer - if you're in the Suffolk area I can do the chipping etc for you

**Link83** · 19-05-2007, 01:42

Thanks for the replies everyone

So heres what I know so far:-
-Dont get a 1.0 or a 1.6/1.6b Xbox
-The best revision to go for is a 1.4
-Best DVD Drive is the Samsung as it read CDR's
-The Xbox scart output is abit dull, but still better than composite
-There is no need for a bigger hard drive to play emulators
-I need a modchip if I want to play import games (which I do)

I found a forum thread mentioned the Panzer Dragoon Orta Problem I mentioned:-

http://www.hdtvarcade.com/hdtvforum/lofiversion/index.php?t4258.html

It seems it only affects Xbox versions 1.6/1.6b, but does anyone have anymore info on if it affects any other games?

Also, I have some more questions if you dont mind:-

-Are there any particular colour Xboxs that are all version 1.4, or am I going to have to email ebay sellers and ask to find out the manufacturing date/serial for each xbox im interested in to find a 1.4?

-Is the component output also dull like the scart?

-Smouty mentioned turning off a 'soften filter' to make the game looks sharper, what is this?

-Which is better the Xecuter 2.6 or Xecuter 3?

-Is it worth me buying US imports or is there little/no difference between PAL and NTSC versions for Xbox? (Still trying to rebuy all my Gamecube games in NTSC just to have progressive scan, so would rather buy the 'best' versions if I can)

Smouty and Dannywhac - Thanks for the offers, but I live in Stockport (near Manchester) so abit too far away, but thanks very much for offering and for your advice

**Sane** · 19-05-2007, 07:15

Originally posted by Link83 View Post

-I need a modchip if I want to play import games (which I do)

You don't need a modchip to play import games. The only things a modchip offers over a softmod is multiregion dvd playback using the builtin dvd player, easier installation of larger HD's and some restore options should things go bad.

-Smouty mentioned turning off a 'soften filter' to make the game looks sharper, what is this?

I believe the xbox has this feature set to 5 as standard unless the developer of a game has set it to another value. Basically it makes everything look a bit fuzzy. When your Xbox is modded you can adjust it as you like, resulting is a sharper picture on CRT TV's.

-Is it worth me buying US imports or is there little/no difference between PAL and NTSC versions for Xbox? (Still trying to rebuy all my Gamecube games in NTSC just to have progressive scan, so would rather buy the 'best' versions if I can)

For most games it doesn't matter whether you get the PAL or NTSC version, although there are a handful of games that are 50hz only, making them run choppy in 60hz (out of my head Halo, Stranger's Wrath and most EA games suffer from this).

**Leon Retro** · 19-05-2007, 08:00

I heard that outputing the Xbox through component overrides the murky scart filter, and gives a perfectly crisp clean picture.

I've played Outrun2006 through component 480P, and it's amazingly crystal clear.

I read something about the reason why RGB-Scart is so murky. It's something that could be addressed by devs, but I can't remember why most didn't bother?

**dannywhac** · 19-05-2007, 09:23

Little bit extra info - wouldn't get a crystal xbox unless you know it's an original limited release version - the later full release versions are 1.6's.
Xeceuter 3's are basically the 'Pro' chip - one with a few extra features that unless you worship the xbox, you won't use (LCD displays on the front of the case is an example of one add-on, 'on the fly' bios config is another), personally I'd stick with a 2.6 CE for half the price - reliable and it'll do everything you want.
When you get the chip solder it in - don't get a solderless adaptor (no offence to anyone that has one but they're poop) - it's easy enough to solder in, the fiddly bit's the D0 point, but with patience it's easy enough.
And I'll bet a quid that after having a modded xbox for a month you'll want a bigger harddrive

**Pavey** · 19-05-2007, 09:28

Don't agree with you that the solderless adapters are poop. On what grounds?

I have modded about 6 or 7 with solderless adapters and they all work exactly the same as a soldered version.

**dannywhac** · 19-05-2007, 10:19

Well - not up on the current solderless adaptors, so there may be one with all the fixed qualities of soldering, but over the last couple of years I've had a few friends with solderless adaptors, and some of these have 'popped' out the chip (ie poor connection due to no fixed joint). It's just a thought - I'd rather go with somthing that I know you can move from room to room or house to house and not worry about chip displacement.
You might be right though - if you can't/ don't want to risk soldering, solderless will save you the cost of getting someone to install a soldered chip for you, it's just personally I'd rather have a soldered chip for piece of mind.

**mezzanine** · 19-05-2007, 12:53

Originally posted by Link83

Smouty mentioned turning off a 'soften filter' to make the game looks sharper, what is this?

http://www.seedwiki.com/wiki/ff_compatibility_list

**Link83** · 22-05-2007, 17:48

Thanks everyone for your help.
I think I have found a 1.4 xbox, manufacturing date 2003 - 11 - 30 with a Samsung Drive. However the seller isnt sure if it has been on Xbox live, in which case I cant upgrade the Hard Drive - is there an easy way to find out if it has been used online?

**charlesr** · 22-05-2007, 18:13

Originally posted by Link83 View Post

-I need a modchip if I want to play import games (which I do)

Or a softmod.

Not sure where the idea that softmods are unreliable comes from. It's essentially just writing some files to the HDD so surely MORE reliable than a modchip, which could mess up your cpu during the soldering process or come loose if it was a solderless. I've done 3 softmods and they are all still working perfectly.

Some import games are region free, but not many.

**dannywhac** · 22-05-2007, 18:23

You could go on live - just to see, or get an eeprom from a non-live xbox, solder it in your own and you're away! Prob. got one kicking around here somewhere you could have........

Softmods keep getting better and better, but would still go the chip way for piece of mind (then again, xbox's are cheap enough now...).
I agree with the solderless being somewhat sketchy (in my eyes), but when you install a chip, you shouldn't be anywhere near the CPU

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