Super DC Stick Mod II'

[Pavey]

Billy mate, i have a **** load of led's here, all shapes and sizes.

I'll take some pix of the various types tomorrow if you like and let you see what ones you want, if any.

[randombs]

Cheers mate. Is it straightforward to wire them up? As you'll have guessed from the pics, I'm no stranger to 'wiring things up', but you know...

[Pavey]

Yep, simple really. A google will provide you with all the info you need. I'm no expert, but have done my N64 and a few xbox's.

If they don't come on, chances are you have connected to the wrong leg, so just swap them over.

[Pavey]

LED'S !

Here i have tried to show all the types i have. No blue's, but have round nes, flat ones, cubed ones, tiny ones, giant ones etc..

Guess you tell me what colours you want, and i can see what i have.


(Photos courtesy ****eBerry)

[randombs]

Cheers for the photos, mate. The second pic looks like an identity parade

I need to pop out to the postie anyway, and there's a Maplin next to them. If they don't have the LED I'm after I'll let you know. I think I'll just be safe and go with a white LED and see what happens...

[J0e Musashi]

Yeah, I agree, I seem to remember J0e getting custom 5 button plates made for his consolized atomiswave, although it might have been hearsay because no-one ever saw pics.

It's not hard at all. All you gotta do is take the existing plate to a metal worker (I used one in Edmonton) and ask him to recreate it, but without any button holes you may not want and no VMS hole. The new plate will just screw straight in. Then you just either snap-in or screw in your buttons and wire it all up.

I never actually finished my 3rd and 4th sticks. I have all the required parts in the loft still, but I never put them together as I had to do some conversion work to the 3 and 4-up I/O board and TBH I found it hard to find anyone willing to play Vs. with me at the best of times, and once I finally found time to do it I has already sold off my AW mobo.

[randombs]

ATTENTION MODDERS!

I'm going to Neo-Empire's Rebirth tournament on Sunday (not competing this time though) and I thought I'd do the LED mod I was thinking of.

I got a couple from Maplin and I'm trying to figure out how to wire them up exactly.

I plonked one in on the ground wire that links all the buttons together so that it'd light up when a button is pressed and it works for the most part but first of all it's always on even if no buttons are pressed (but very dim) and secondly when a button is pressed it lights up but it's a bit dim. Holding all the buttons down brightens it somewhat, but when I wired it directly to the pad's 5v line it was super-duper bright.

If I wire it in parallel with the buttons, it stays on all the time and then turns off when a button is pressed.

I've got two, I want them to light up the Ryu figure, preferably from down below. I'm worried what the effects of prolongued exposure to the LED light could do to Ryu and the background, so was considering fitting a switch but I dunno if I feel like going through the hassle...

[randombs]

THE FINISHED ARTICLE





I put the two leds in the Ryu scene but it looked a bit naff and one led was bright enough anyway, so I just pushed it up to where the moon is, which looks pretty cool!

I was wondering what to do with the remaining led and decided to see if it could light up the start button and it could, so I just stuck it there.

To wrap things up, I wired up a toggle switch. The switch has three positions (1,2, off) so I figured it'd be a bit lame having a three-way switch that only does on-off so I wired up a resistor to one of the terminals so the leds can be turned bright, dim and off. Dim mode is a bit lame (it's a bit too dim) but it's ok when playing in the dark. This way I can hopefully preserve the life of the leds by keeping it dim or off most of the time, and saving bright mode for showing it to people

[randombs]

THE STORY SO FAR

I changed the PS1 pcb for a 360 common ground one seeing as the 360 has all the fighters I need (and any future tourneys I go to will most likely be using 360 for SF4/HDR).

I killed the leds doing that as I didn't check the voltages (PS1 pad uses 3.5v or so, 360 uses 5v) so replaced them. I also added two variable resistors instead of normal resistors so that a) I wouldn't have to figure out the resistances I'd need and b) I could then fine-tune the brightness settings for both switch positions:



The wire on the left goes directly to the pad's 5v input line (red wire in usb lead) and the two wires on the right go to the legs of the switch. As before, I wired the leds in parallel for maximum brightness.

I also added a much-needed headset port:



I wanted the port to sit differently (it can only be mounted on panels up to 2mm thick) but I messed things up so had to just drill a hole and thread it through. Then I just cut a square of plastic out of a CD case, mounted it on that and hot glued the thing in place. It feels pretty solid, I hope it doesn't break!

Here's the insides as they look now:



It's pretty messy but I wasn't interested in keeping things tidy. I noticed the button contacts had started corroding already so I desoldered them and put quick disconnects on. This will also speed up button replacement, as well as prevent any further corrosion. I wanted everything to be easy and quick to replace. Even the 360 pad wiring is really straightforward, although I decided to remove the triggers to keep things slim (I left the analogue stick bodies in place but cut off the stick bits). I've wired it up so Z and C are RB and RT (standard SF layout). Also, you'll notice the mounted headset socket is wired to a regular 2.5mm headphone jack so no need to desolder anything.

It's still not 100% finished, I'll be needing to add a new button on the side for 'back' (the white button there is wired to the xbox guide button). The only time I've come across needing to use the back button is in the SF4 challenge mode but that's reason enough for me.

[bwi]

Nice work billy. Ive got Two DC sticks with the vmu board missing etc that i wasnt sure what to do with.

Given me a few ideas now cheers

Bri