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    #16
    fair enough, but it begs the question - if my xbox pad also expects analogue buttons (they're all analogue), how come it works with just standard arcade buttons like the ones on the DC stick?

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      #17
      Gamester = crap

      but the board is oh so small. i see that blaze have released an arcade stick, i'm beginning to wonder how this would cope with digital buttons.

      pete

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        #18
        Originally posted by billy_dimashq
        fair enough, but it begs the question - if my xbox pad also expects analogue buttons (they're all analogue), how come it works with just standard arcade buttons like the ones on the DC stick?
        Originally posted by hellbelly
        Gamester = crap
        Exactly.

        I don't know why the Gamester is so fussy, but it is.
        In the same way, how come certain PS/PS2 sticks don't work properly via PS-Xbox adapters? Yet all the sticks work perfectly on a real PS/PS2? *shrugs*

        EDIT: Just to make this post *slightly* more useful, I'd guess it's to do with the Gamester is calibrated. IIRC when the buttons aren't being pressed, there's a resistance of about 1-2kOhms. So I guess if you leave the buttons circuits completely open, it confuses it.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Yod@

          I don't know why the Gamester is so fussy, but it is.
          In the same way, how come certain PS/PS2 sticks don't work properly via PS-Xbox adapters? Yet all the sticks work perfectly on a real PS/PS2? *shrugs*
          this is because, unlike the PS2, the XBox and GC were designed to accommodate two analogue sticks each as well as a digital pad. The PS2 on the other hand (and the PSOne obviously) can switch between digital and analogue modes. The PS2 sticks will be digital-only, which would be the equivalent of plugging in an original PS digital pad, so it's up to the actual game to decide whether it wants digital or not. All the PS/PS2 fighting games will obviously allow digital-only control so that's why it works. If you try, say, Ape Escape (or any other game that doesn't use the d-pad) you'll have the same issue as you would with the XBox converter (although the buttons would still work)

          so basically, the XBox and GC are expecting a pad with 2 analogue sticks, and a d-pad. I doubt they'd get fussy about the number of buttons though.
          This is why the converters don't work . Having said that, there are a few being sold now that DO allow sticks to work. They obviously tell the console that they're a pad with 2 analogue sticks

          The same would go for the Hori SNES pad for GC I guess, or else that wouldn't work either. And any arcade stick designed for XBox or GC (notice that the Logic3 GC arcade stick allows you to choose what the stick does - either d-pad, analogue stick or C-stick)

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            #20
            No, it's not that.

            My mate got a PS2 Sammy stick from PlayAsia, wouldn't work with his PS2-Xbox adapter.

            I used the guts from an official Sony digital pad (i.e. NOT a Dual Shock pad!), and it works perfectly.

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              #21
              really? oh ok...
              thanks for that info yod@!

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                #22
                Ah well, got the xbox gamester stick working perfectly (plus fitted a switch so C and Y can be swapped between left/right triggers and black/white).

                But as soon as the dc pcb went anywhere near it, neither were happy, as i'm sure everyone else who's tried has found out. For both consoles the directions were working perfectly, but the buttons were completely messed up.

                Pete

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                  #23
                  hmm. well I'm baffled. However, you say the gamester stick is working now? If you managed to pull it off then I'll still be interested in one regardless of whether I lose saturn compatibility (i'm getting an astro city stick) or not.

                  Hey if you're longing for DC compatibility (and there doesn't appear to be a possible way to achieve this), you can simply remove the DC circuit board from the stick and put it in a little plastic project box (i think it's small enough to fit in a cassette case but it's got the VMU slot too). Then, keep the DC stick bare (just the buttons and stick) and glue a 15-pin neogeo-style (same as PC joysticks - DB15) connector to the casing (or have a wire with the connector on the end). Then, you just put another connector on the xbox circuit board and the DC circuit board and whichever you want to use, just plug the DC stick into that board. Initially I wanted to do what you're doing - DC and XBox (or PS2 and XBox) but in the long run it's nicer to have a load of project boxes each with a different console pad's circuitry, then you could use your stick on ANY machine in the world (probably). All you'd need is a pad for that console, a 15-pin connector and a project box. I'm planning on doing that myself. I did it with the XBox pad on my old home-made stick and I just wired the connector up using hte Neogeo pinouts so if I used the stick in a neogeo it would work.

                  Here are pics of my first stick - it's nothing fancy but it did the job (it's since been taken apart and the bits'll be sold separately)






                  P.S. Woohoo! the pictures worked! my first time you see, found a good online photo album site called www.photobucket.com - it's free and you can link directly to the pics. no banners, popups, etc

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by billy_dimashq
                    I wanted to do what you're doing - DC and XBox (or PS2 and XBox) but in the long run it's nicer to have a load of project boxes each with a different console pad's circuitry, then you could use your stick on ANY machine in the world (probably).
                    That's exactly what I did.

                    I removed the electronics from all my arcade sticks (quite a few! ), and gave them all a standard 15-way connector.

                    I've currently got 5 project boxes, each containing a pair of butchered pads and 2x 15-way sockets - for the Saturn/PS2/DC/Xbox and one with an IPAC in it for use on my PC/MAME cabinet.

                    I've got one spare project box left, so I'll probably use that for a Megadrive one.

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                      #25
                      gah, get that pcb off the carpet!

                      static!

                      I did the same when I built an arcade stick, put the micro-controller pcb in a separate project box as part of the cable. It makes it much easier to add machines, I've got cables for the Amiga, Mega Drive, NES, SNES, Jaguar, etc. It was 10 years ago, which explains the vintage

                      For PC Mame the Hori Xbox Arcade Stick works with the USB adaptor.

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                        #26
                        gah indeed! i've never had any probs with static! although that pad did blow, it wasn't due to static - i joined up the wrong pins for the L trigger and one of the resistor got orangey-hot and popped with smoke and stuff.

                        Besides, I can't find a cheap enough project box to house the behemoth that is the xbox pad and it gets worse - the new3rd party pad that i'm using has an even bigger pcb!

                        right now it's my turn to ask for advice - i may be getting a saturn astro city stick but i read someone's post on here who said the stick is really clunky (he gave the model no. of the astro HSS-0136, not the virtua crap stick). What are your opinions on it? Lik sang says it's regarded as one of the best sticks around...

                        I basically want a good all-round arcade stick. I'm not sure if I find Sanwa's much fun on SF2CE etc, and I don't play VF4 Evo (which appears to be most people's single criterion for every stick and button)

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by billy_dimashq
                          right now it's my turn to ask for advice - i may be getting a saturn astro city stick but i read someone's post on here who said the stick is really clunky (he gave the model no. of the astro HSS-0136, not the virtua crap stick). What are your opinions on it? Lik sang says it's regarded as one of the best sticks around...
                          I've had a quick play with a couple, and they were good, similar to the DC stick in terms of quality. They look nice too

                          I remember the stick feeling a little different (possibly the clunkyness?), but I think that was because the microswitches were worn. It would be easy enough to fix that if they're standard switches (which they probably are).

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                            #28
                            Haven't used a Saturn astro city stick or a VF4 Evo stick.

                            I've got one of these though:
                            SNK vs. Capcom Chaos Fighter Stick: Capcom Version for PlayStation 2The SNK vs. Capcom Chaos Fighter Stick from Sammy has been specially designed for Capcom vs SNK Chaos for PlayStation2™. It features extra large "punch" and "kick" buttons. Available as SNK and Capcom model. A great accessory for all fans of the series.


                            It has an octagonal gate and a fairly stiff stick - a lot of people prefer them for fighting games, but it may not appeal to people who are used to a looser stick (I normally play with loose sticks, so it took me a while to get used to it).

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