CPS-1 board restricted by H-7 'key' on Jamma harness...

[dataDave]

The H-7 'key' slot on the Jamma harness is restricting us from connecting it to a CPS-1 board, Cadillacs and Dinosaurs, as the board connector is one full length with no gaps where the H-7 usually sits.

Do we need a special harness or what? I'm trying to search on the net but my internet is being piss poor at the minute and I can only seem to load this place, and I'm going to bed now so I thought I'd leave a thread stewing overnight.

Cheers.

[SharkSkin-Man]

Sounds like a boot?

[kernow]

Sounds like a boot?

Agreed.

You could always get an extension harness made, or someone over at AO could make you an edge connector with a keyless connector on one side and a normal jamma edge on the other.

[dataDave]

Yeah, I figured it was a boot as there is no Capcom branding anywhere, plus it's rare as rocking horse **** apparently and there's no way it was legit for the price my mate paid.

I'll get him to send it back. Serves him right for not consulting teh Fallows before purchasing. Hopefully the seller offers returns or will let us exchange it for something else at least.

Thanks for the fast responses. My internet is still running poor.

[kernow]

if you dont care about it a great deal and it was cheap, just get the dremel out and make a slot (in the right place)

or you can remove the key from the cabs jamma harness, and clearly label the top of the connector so you dont plug it in the wrong way (that would be bad)

[dataDave]

I'll think about it mate, the seller is being an arse eventhough we clearly have a case as it was never marked up as being a boot. I don't want to butcher anything for a fake.

On the positive side the Sanwa parts turned up today and I've managed to install all the buttons myself , they fit like a dream but it feels a bit weird playing with them stood up as the action is so subtle compared to the bulky Happs - looks like we're going to need some stools.

Having major problems with the sticks though, the wiring doesn't make sense to me in the slightest - I'll make another thread once I've got the photos off the camera... This **** looks 1,000,000x more complex than anything I've ever seen in a bomb that needs defusing even. It's one huge spaghetti junction of bull**** to me. We're also going to have to drill out some fresh holes for the screws as the metal plate doesn't align with what's already in, unless we can dismantle the old sticks and replace the parts somehow.

[kernow]

hmm, I have the pinout for the sanwa stick if you need it, you probably need to supply a ground and just chop the microswitches off the existing wires.

Did you get the 5 pin wiring harness with each stick? they would help, its a piece of cake man, if you can connect a couple wires together.

[dataDave]

Here's what comes out the end of the stick, the other end connects to the stick using the white bit from your pic:

And here's what I'm up against:

The stick is connected up with the same kind of plug and play connectors as the button clips. I don't know where to start with the sticks, lol, the new one has 5 wires, the old ones have 8, and some of those are cross-connected to some of the buttons.

I've fixed cars before using common sense, but this multi-coloured cable fest is a whole new realm to me entirely.

[kernow]

old wires are going to have a direction and ground each, the ground is probably chained to the buttons also. this stick having a 5 pin connector is all directions + one ground.

[kernow]

You can just use one of the grounds from the stick switches (a black/white lead), and then solder the four coloured direction wires onto the (correct) wires coming from the stick, and heatshrink it over etc

As for mounting them you might need to erm, drill the sanwa mounting plates with the correct hole mountings from the cab panel.

JLF connector pinout:
pins vertical >> facing up (you might need to rotate the plastic base of the stick on the plate itself, or adjust these accordingly)

1- Ground
2- Down
3- Up
4- Right
5- Left

Or I guess you could bring up a CPS2 test menu, with the input check, and touch a ground on pin 1, and a coloured lead from the existing cab controls onto each pin and write down which direction it flags up. cmon get chopping those wires!

[dataDave]

OK, so I just need to work out which colours the directions on the old stick are, by gradually disconnecting each clip, and then once that's sorted cut the clips off and connect them up to the new stick? I'm guessing the ground will be the black one, which will just need to connect up to any random button (or perhaps what the ground is connected to currently, just to be safe)?

I'm hoping I can replace the stainless steel retainer plate on the new sticks with the retainer from the old ones, then we don't have to get someone to drill through metal in order to bolt the new sticks on. >< That would leave ugly holes where the old sticks sat.

EDIT: OK mate, just read your 2nd post. Seems like we're on track somewhat.

I don't think there's anything here I can **** up massively, so it's all cool, it might just be a while before we play anything after I start work.

Cheers for all this help man. It's much appreciated from all of us here at The Stronghold.

[kernow]

yup. and you know which cables are each direction, as they are connected on up down left right on the cab already

Yeah no problems with the help, I was the same a few years back no worries

[dataDave]

WTF am I thinking? One of my housemates is a precision engineer. I can just measure up a fresh plate, draw it out for him, and voila, he'll make two of them on a weekend. It'll take him about 10 minutes. He just made my other housemate the most elite pipe you've ever seen, some guy in the pub offered him ?80 to make another one too.

Or I guess you could bring up a CPS2 test menu, with the input check, and touch a ground on pin 1, and a coloured lead from the existing cab controls onto each pin and write down which direction it flags up. cmon get chopping those wires!

**** that, I don't even get what you're on about! I'll have a random poke-around though if I'm assured I won't get electrocuted. I've been connecting up the buttons with the power off and then using the input check to test 'em though, I wasn't sure about what order the clips for the buttons went back in, because as you know there are two per button, but it seems they can just go back on randomly - I was expecting some to be "1" when depressed going to "0" when pressed but that wasn't the case, unless I've been really lucky and scored success with reconnecting all 12 buttons on my first go.

On the whole I think I know what I'm on with now. First job is to get some new retainer plates made for the Sanwas then they can be screwed in, I can keep the old sticks still wired up until I suss the directions and then simply connect each cable gradually.

Job's a good 'un. I can't wait until it's done. We need blue + yellow fake leather stools next.

[dataDave]

It's looking mighty sexy already with just the buttons in, can't wait until the sticks are in as well and I can take a piccy.

[kernow]

haha nice, erm yeah the voltage for the buttons isn't going to electrocute you, no way, and yes because its a simple switch the signal/ground can go on either leg of the button, fiddling with the back of a monitor when its on is fun thats where you can get electrocuted bigtime.

Sticks shouldn't be too hard at all, you know which wires are for up/down/left right as they are already connected to the stick on the cab, all you have to do is solder those and a ground to the correct wire on the stick harness. I guess after working out how to mount them