After installing everything last week I finally got around actually using the RetroTINK 5X and the new component switch by gsuper/Hennadiy (and bought from Castlemania Games).
SCA-101
In conjuction with the 5X 2.39 I was finally able to test my new SCART switcher, the SCA-101 by Axunworks. I knew of this switcher for years, but reviews were extremely rare and I went for an Hydra by Lotharek.
Then the Hydra no longer had inputs available, and I didn't really want to buy a 16-input version or buy a daughter board for the one I already had. I considered other alternatives, like the gScart (made by the same guy of the gComp switch described here) but it still had only 8 inputs and didn't really needed a mirrored output.
So I took the plunge and ordered a SCA-101. These are assembled by hand by Axunworks in China, and mine took around a month to be completed from order to shipping. I went for for black/gold colour scheme, and I'm pretty happy with it, though I would have preferred a matte finish like in the product photos instead of the glossy I received. Oh well.
So, the SCA-101. It features 10 inputs (labelled from A to J) and an input. Compared to the Hydra and the gScart the SCA-101 is not autoswitching, you need to manually push one of the buttons on the unit's front side to select the source. This might be a deal-breaker for some, but I don't particularly care and the unit doesn't need power to operate, which is a definite plus for me.
The SCA-101 can be powered though, and if you do (with the included power adapter), you get a whole host of unique features.
First, you can select JP21 or EU SCART individually for all the inputs; the SCA-101 outputs only to EU SCART though. I no longer have Japanese SCART cables to test this feature, having converted everything into EU pinout, but back in the day, this would have been a very handy feature (note: this feature should work with non-powered unit too).
If you are still running a FrameMeister (or are waiting for your 5X to arrive :P), the SCA-101 has a dedicated DIN output for the FM freeing you from bulky SCART-DIN coverters.
Next are a set of advanced features that should only be used if you really know what you are doing.
First is RGB Gain, which actually modifies the voltage of the output signal, from 0 to double the input. It's controlled by an on/off switch and a rotary knob. Next to this there's a sync stripper; it's useless for any upscaler, old or new, but it's there.
Last, on the same side, there's a horizontal/vertical adjustment similar to what you find on I think all scalers.
On the opposite side of the selection buttons, where the poiwer plug is, there are RCA breakouts for R,G,B, C-Sync, and stereo audio.
The unit came with many breakout cables (SCART to RCA, DIN to SCART, etc etc) that I don't really need, and probably people that do already have them, but it completes the package rather nicely.
And just like the gComp, there's nothing really much to say...the unit works admirably. If I have to nitpick, there is no manual, and instructions are printed on the underside of the unit.
gcomp switch
This is a component and composite video with stereo sound switch wth 8 inputs and 2 mirrored outputs. There are ten groups of 6 RCA jacks each, 3 for component video, 1 for composite video, and 2 for stereo sound shared by the formers. You can use Y cables to connect multiple audio sources to one input group. Inputs are autoswitching with no remote and/or onboard controller. The unit is powered, and it comes with a 100-240v power adaptor with interchangeable plugs. The unit is powered through a micro-B port, so probably any phone power adaptor or even USB cable from a computer/TV/amplifier will do.
As with many "hobbyist" AV equipment, the switch doesn't come with a full case, by assembled from a backplate, PCB with plugs, and a clear plexiglass top. Laser Bear Industries sell a bumper case that will do the finest job at keeping the dust out, but you'll need to disassemble the gcomp to install it. It's not a particularly big deal, a bunch of screws, find where the USB port cutout is, and everything slides in with minimal force.
And there's nothing really anything to say about this. It does exactly what you expect and without no controls, there's nothing to comment about.
RetroTINK 5X
And here's the superstar of this post. This is an upscaler unit by RetroTINK LLC, a guy who already did a number of other upscalers and transcoders. The main difference between the 5x and his previous products is that the 5X is a full-fledge piece of equipment meant to compete with the OSSC, Framemeister and similar.
Like RetroTINK's previous products, and unlike other "hobbyist" equipment, the 5X comes in a fully enclosed case. It's rather non-descriptive, with the three buttons on the front of the unit, and what the inputs/outputs are embosses on it; the case is actually semi-translucent, but you'll only know that when you power up the unit and the working LED comes alive.
The 5X has one SCART (EU pinout) on one side, S-Video, component video, stereo audio, HDMI output and power socket (USB micro-B) on the back; the green component plug accepts composite video. The unit comes with a single USB-A to micro-B cable for power (and in my case, it was an "upper echelon" braided USB cable, very nice touch) for power but no power brick; mobile adapters or connecting it to PC/TV/amplifier will do.
The 5X's biggest drawn for me is the ability to eliminate video outs due to resolution switching.
My final outputs are one 4K monitor and an Atomos Shogun for recording footage; the HDMI signal is mirrored by a Denon X7200WA. The Shogun is particularly handy for detecting vieo outs as it displays a warning icon if the signal is unstable and creates different video files at every interruption.
Another big feature is that the 5X outputs a standard 1080p signal no matter the source, unlike the OSSC which linemultiplies pixels based on it, resulting in nonstandard resolutions that might not be correctly interpreted by TVs, monitors, or recording equipment.
After powering on Shogun, monitor, and set amplifier channels correctly, I powered up the RetroTINK 5X, and...a beautiful 1080p60 signal was broadcasted and perfectly recognised by everything. I was happy already.
The first test was R-Type Delta on a Japanese PS1 with Xstation and connected in RGB...mostly because I remember the game having a lot of resolution switching due to the intro movie. The 5X handled that just fine, with no video interruption from the Xstation's menu, R-Type Delta's splash screens and intro movies, option menus, and the game itself. Resetting the console did not break the video stream and even turning the PS1 didn't.
I tried another bunch of PS1 games with videos and all of them where handled perfectly.
I then moved to Super Famicom and AV Famicom (both RGB), and there's nothing really to say here: 240p upscaling was already good on older equipment like the FrameMeister or even the XRGB2+, and the 5X is no exception.
Lastly I tested a PAL GC with GC Loader over component. Again, starting from the 5X's blue "no input" screen, video was never interrupted when GC Loader's menu came up, with the 5X interpreting the source as 576i. To continue my PAL test, I chose Metroid Prime. The game booted up fine with no interruptions, although the video signal was lost for a split second when I turned on progressive scan.
The only thing I have to report about the GC is that the 5X doesn't correctly space scanlines with this input resolution, 4 scanlines are spaced correctly, then there's a "pause" two scanlines wide, and so on. It's ahardly noticeable on a 27" inch monitor on a visually busy game like Metroid Prime, but it'll probably be more evident on cleaner, more static games.
The "uninterruptible" video mode is called Triple Buffer in the options, and can be disabled to get a basically lag-free upscaling. There are a lot of other options available, including an output rsolution of 1440p, different scaling and interpolation modes, but surprisingly not basic brightness/contrast options.
Keep in mind that I haven't updated my unit's firmware before starting, and I don't even know the version it has. Maybe never releases fixed this problem. And this problem aside, the 5X covers all my needs perfectly and it's exactly what I was hoping for.
An other minor bugbear is that the OSD stays on screen until you dismiss it, and on first powerup the unit doesn't use scanlines.
Compared to the FrameMeister: there's no contest. The FrameMeister might have more control over the output (birghtnes, contrast, colour levels), but 5X is superior in pretty much every other aspect and it's very much still in active development, so it might get even more features than now.
Compared to the OSSC: I'd say the 5X is superior. The OSSC is a wonderful piece of kit, but also requires some fiddling to get it just right. The 5X might have less options but is more compatible with TVs and such thanks to its "standard" 1080p output and it's pretty much plug-and-play.
Now, let's see what the OSSC Pro will be
firmware 2.39
I was finally able to play around with the newest firmware for the 5x Pro, 2.39. The firmware before that was 1.999, and the huge jump in versioning is well deserved.
Firmware 2.39 introduces a very handy OSD that allows you to modify every aspect of the 5X with ease, without trying to remember which button on the remote does what you are trying to do. Changes are reflected immediately, and with Triple Buffering on, there's no drop in signal.
You can also save up to 10 presets, but there is no way to rename or delete them.
After trying several SNES and NES games, I think that without scanlines the 5X is a tad less sharp than a FrameMeister on 240p signals, but the CRT filters come to the rescue and allow to simulate any kind of CRT you want; these filters are independent from scanlines and I've found that the Grille-Bright with 20-25% strength scanlines work the best on my 4K 27" monitor.
The 2.39 firmware also makes very easy to finetune things like low-pass filter, clocks, and other stuff that I'm sure will arcade board owners happy but aren't strictly needed for most console users.
This new firmware also allows you to customise scanline cadence, which corrects the uneven intervals I noticed in GameCube games with the previous firmwares.
If there's one thing I really want, is the ability to rename profiles and maybe edit them with the 5X connected to the computer through USB, which you need to do to update the firmware.
About updating the firmware: it's not the most streamlined process ever, you need to connect the 5X to a computer and to do so you need to install a custom USB driver; the driver is harmless and haven't had any problems with any peripherals under Win10 (even modded 3DS for audio/video capture through USB), but I don't particularly like loading my PC with too many drivers.
Once the drivers are installed, the procedure itself is pretty simple.
RetroTINK 4K
Here.
Links
Hydra: https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=124
SCA-101: https://www.axunworks.com/product-p931.html
gComp: https://castlemaniagames.com/collect...mposite-switch
gScart: https://castlemaniagames.com/collect...roducts/gscart
RetroTINK 5X Pro: https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/5x-pro
SCA-101
In conjuction with the 5X 2.39 I was finally able to test my new SCART switcher, the SCA-101 by Axunworks. I knew of this switcher for years, but reviews were extremely rare and I went for an Hydra by Lotharek.
Then the Hydra no longer had inputs available, and I didn't really want to buy a 16-input version or buy a daughter board for the one I already had. I considered other alternatives, like the gScart (made by the same guy of the gComp switch described here) but it still had only 8 inputs and didn't really needed a mirrored output.
So I took the plunge and ordered a SCA-101. These are assembled by hand by Axunworks in China, and mine took around a month to be completed from order to shipping. I went for for black/gold colour scheme, and I'm pretty happy with it, though I would have preferred a matte finish like in the product photos instead of the glossy I received. Oh well.
So, the SCA-101. It features 10 inputs (labelled from A to J) and an input. Compared to the Hydra and the gScart the SCA-101 is not autoswitching, you need to manually push one of the buttons on the unit's front side to select the source. This might be a deal-breaker for some, but I don't particularly care and the unit doesn't need power to operate, which is a definite plus for me.
The SCA-101 can be powered though, and if you do (with the included power adapter), you get a whole host of unique features.
First, you can select JP21 or EU SCART individually for all the inputs; the SCA-101 outputs only to EU SCART though. I no longer have Japanese SCART cables to test this feature, having converted everything into EU pinout, but back in the day, this would have been a very handy feature (note: this feature should work with non-powered unit too).
If you are still running a FrameMeister (or are waiting for your 5X to arrive :P), the SCA-101 has a dedicated DIN output for the FM freeing you from bulky SCART-DIN coverters.
Next are a set of advanced features that should only be used if you really know what you are doing.
First is RGB Gain, which actually modifies the voltage of the output signal, from 0 to double the input. It's controlled by an on/off switch and a rotary knob. Next to this there's a sync stripper; it's useless for any upscaler, old or new, but it's there.
Last, on the same side, there's a horizontal/vertical adjustment similar to what you find on I think all scalers.
On the opposite side of the selection buttons, where the poiwer plug is, there are RCA breakouts for R,G,B, C-Sync, and stereo audio.
The unit came with many breakout cables (SCART to RCA, DIN to SCART, etc etc) that I don't really need, and probably people that do already have them, but it completes the package rather nicely.
And just like the gComp, there's nothing really much to say...the unit works admirably. If I have to nitpick, there is no manual, and instructions are printed on the underside of the unit.
gcomp switch
This is a component and composite video with stereo sound switch wth 8 inputs and 2 mirrored outputs. There are ten groups of 6 RCA jacks each, 3 for component video, 1 for composite video, and 2 for stereo sound shared by the formers. You can use Y cables to connect multiple audio sources to one input group. Inputs are autoswitching with no remote and/or onboard controller. The unit is powered, and it comes with a 100-240v power adaptor with interchangeable plugs. The unit is powered through a micro-B port, so probably any phone power adaptor or even USB cable from a computer/TV/amplifier will do.
As with many "hobbyist" AV equipment, the switch doesn't come with a full case, by assembled from a backplate, PCB with plugs, and a clear plexiglass top. Laser Bear Industries sell a bumper case that will do the finest job at keeping the dust out, but you'll need to disassemble the gcomp to install it. It's not a particularly big deal, a bunch of screws, find where the USB port cutout is, and everything slides in with minimal force.
And there's nothing really anything to say about this. It does exactly what you expect and without no controls, there's nothing to comment about.
RetroTINK 5X
And here's the superstar of this post. This is an upscaler unit by RetroTINK LLC, a guy who already did a number of other upscalers and transcoders. The main difference between the 5x and his previous products is that the 5X is a full-fledge piece of equipment meant to compete with the OSSC, Framemeister and similar.
Like RetroTINK's previous products, and unlike other "hobbyist" equipment, the 5X comes in a fully enclosed case. It's rather non-descriptive, with the three buttons on the front of the unit, and what the inputs/outputs are embosses on it; the case is actually semi-translucent, but you'll only know that when you power up the unit and the working LED comes alive.
The 5X has one SCART (EU pinout) on one side, S-Video, component video, stereo audio, HDMI output and power socket (USB micro-B) on the back; the green component plug accepts composite video. The unit comes with a single USB-A to micro-B cable for power (and in my case, it was an "upper echelon" braided USB cable, very nice touch) for power but no power brick; mobile adapters or connecting it to PC/TV/amplifier will do.
The 5X's biggest drawn for me is the ability to eliminate video outs due to resolution switching.
My final outputs are one 4K monitor and an Atomos Shogun for recording footage; the HDMI signal is mirrored by a Denon X7200WA. The Shogun is particularly handy for detecting vieo outs as it displays a warning icon if the signal is unstable and creates different video files at every interruption.
Another big feature is that the 5X outputs a standard 1080p signal no matter the source, unlike the OSSC which linemultiplies pixels based on it, resulting in nonstandard resolutions that might not be correctly interpreted by TVs, monitors, or recording equipment.
After powering on Shogun, monitor, and set amplifier channels correctly, I powered up the RetroTINK 5X, and...a beautiful 1080p60 signal was broadcasted and perfectly recognised by everything. I was happy already.
The first test was R-Type Delta on a Japanese PS1 with Xstation and connected in RGB...mostly because I remember the game having a lot of resolution switching due to the intro movie. The 5X handled that just fine, with no video interruption from the Xstation's menu, R-Type Delta's splash screens and intro movies, option menus, and the game itself. Resetting the console did not break the video stream and even turning the PS1 didn't.
I tried another bunch of PS1 games with videos and all of them where handled perfectly.
I then moved to Super Famicom and AV Famicom (both RGB), and there's nothing really to say here: 240p upscaling was already good on older equipment like the FrameMeister or even the XRGB2+, and the 5X is no exception.
Lastly I tested a PAL GC with GC Loader over component. Again, starting from the 5X's blue "no input" screen, video was never interrupted when GC Loader's menu came up, with the 5X interpreting the source as 576i. To continue my PAL test, I chose Metroid Prime. The game booted up fine with no interruptions, although the video signal was lost for a split second when I turned on progressive scan.
The only thing I have to report about the GC is that the 5X doesn't correctly space scanlines with this input resolution, 4 scanlines are spaced correctly, then there's a "pause" two scanlines wide, and so on. It's ahardly noticeable on a 27" inch monitor on a visually busy game like Metroid Prime, but it'll probably be more evident on cleaner, more static games.
The "uninterruptible" video mode is called Triple Buffer in the options, and can be disabled to get a basically lag-free upscaling. There are a lot of other options available, including an output rsolution of 1440p, different scaling and interpolation modes, but surprisingly not basic brightness/contrast options.
Keep in mind that I haven't updated my unit's firmware before starting, and I don't even know the version it has. Maybe never releases fixed this problem. And this problem aside, the 5X covers all my needs perfectly and it's exactly what I was hoping for.
An other minor bugbear is that the OSD stays on screen until you dismiss it, and on first powerup the unit doesn't use scanlines.
Compared to the FrameMeister: there's no contest. The FrameMeister might have more control over the output (birghtnes, contrast, colour levels), but 5X is superior in pretty much every other aspect and it's very much still in active development, so it might get even more features than now.
Compared to the OSSC: I'd say the 5X is superior. The OSSC is a wonderful piece of kit, but also requires some fiddling to get it just right. The 5X might have less options but is more compatible with TVs and such thanks to its "standard" 1080p output and it's pretty much plug-and-play.
Now, let's see what the OSSC Pro will be
firmware 2.39
I was finally able to play around with the newest firmware for the 5x Pro, 2.39. The firmware before that was 1.999, and the huge jump in versioning is well deserved.
Firmware 2.39 introduces a very handy OSD that allows you to modify every aspect of the 5X with ease, without trying to remember which button on the remote does what you are trying to do. Changes are reflected immediately, and with Triple Buffering on, there's no drop in signal.
You can also save up to 10 presets, but there is no way to rename or delete them.
After trying several SNES and NES games, I think that without scanlines the 5X is a tad less sharp than a FrameMeister on 240p signals, but the CRT filters come to the rescue and allow to simulate any kind of CRT you want; these filters are independent from scanlines and I've found that the Grille-Bright with 20-25% strength scanlines work the best on my 4K 27" monitor.
The 2.39 firmware also makes very easy to finetune things like low-pass filter, clocks, and other stuff that I'm sure will arcade board owners happy but aren't strictly needed for most console users.
This new firmware also allows you to customise scanline cadence, which corrects the uneven intervals I noticed in GameCube games with the previous firmwares.
If there's one thing I really want, is the ability to rename profiles and maybe edit them with the 5X connected to the computer through USB, which you need to do to update the firmware.
About updating the firmware: it's not the most streamlined process ever, you need to connect the 5X to a computer and to do so you need to install a custom USB driver; the driver is harmless and haven't had any problems with any peripherals under Win10 (even modded 3DS for audio/video capture through USB), but I don't particularly like loading my PC with too many drivers.
Once the drivers are installed, the procedure itself is pretty simple.
RetroTINK 4K
Here.
Links
Hydra: https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=124
SCA-101: https://www.axunworks.com/product-p931.html
gComp: https://castlemaniagames.com/collect...mposite-switch
gScart: https://castlemaniagames.com/collect...roducts/gscart
RetroTINK 5X Pro: https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/5x-pro
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