The Bicycle Thread

[charlesr]

Face: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=24478
Legs and back: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=36521

[SuperBeatBoy]

Thanks charles, will have a look at them.

[charlesr]

These things won't keep the spray off like a close fitting mudguard, but unless you have mounts already on the frame then these are a good option. That top one for the face stops water being thrown out in front of you which then stops due to air resistance which you then ride through with your face. LOL. It works though.

[Anpanman]

To answer a few questions, I use a fair bit of Topeak stuff;

Pump;

http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/MiniDX

Fits on frame, locks onto valve (does both types) and has dual action so inflates on pull as well as push

Frame bag;

http://www.topeak.com/products/WedgePacksQuickClick?WYSESSID=a5mg0ai5kcq88kr84p5dnjsf91

I've got the medium pack, has a rain cover but they do fully waterproof versions now;

http://www.topeak.com/products/drybags

Mudguards;

http://www.topeak.com/products/Fenders/DeFenderM1_M2_Set

[wod]

Well i've been out for a ride after work due to the nice weather and ended up being out for 3 hours. On the way back some idoit going past in a car decided to throw an egg at my bike, all over the front forks and disc brake.

I was out with a friend and he proper into bikes and has a very nice cannondale taurine 4 race spec.

I've had a play with the seat height and need to find the right postion i think.

cleaning mud off whats the best way to clean use some warm soapy water on the frame and use a cleaner on the gears and chain etc ?

[charlesr]

I'm lazy. I use a massive spray bottle of muc-off (motorbike version, but I think they are all the same). You spray the bike off with a hose and a soft floor/dustpan brush being gentle near any bearing areas (uses less water than a bucket if the mud is still wet), spray the whole thing with muc-off, leave for 2 mins and then spray off and then use a wet floor brush to finish it off. Then regrease the chain if need be (in the summer I use ice wax).

Where do you live? Beirut?

[charlesr]

Lock on grips are half price at cycle surgery at the mo. I have some - makes it dead easy to change grips and you can also change the width of your bars slightly by not putting them all the way on (half an inch either end makes a noticeable difference on the trails).

[wod]

I'm lazy. I use a massive spray bottle of muc-off (motorbike version, but I think they are all the same). You spray the bike off with a hose and a soft floor/dustpan brush being gentle near any bearing areas (uses less water than a bucket if the mud is still wet), spray the whole thing with muc-off, leave for 2 mins and then spray off and then use a wet floor brush to finish it off. Then regrease the chain if need be (in the summer I use ice wax).

Where do you live? Beirut?

lol it was just some idiots that thought it was funny, good job I didn't get hold of them as it would have been worse.

already looking at upgrade parts as I don't like the feel of the disc brakes, maybe they need adjustment ?

Thinking avid elixir 5 for the front maybe ?
the brakes are shimano m446 hydraulic using mineral oil that the bike comes with.

pedals do you guys use the flat platform bmx style ?

[SuperBeatBoy]

Lock on grips are half price at cycle surgery at the mo. I have some - makes it dead easy to change grips and you can also change the width of your bars slightly by not putting them all the way on (half an inch either end makes a noticeable difference on the trails).

Are these the bars on the end i've seen some people with? Been after a pair for a while, be nice for some quick turning.

[charlesr]

already looking at upgrade parts as I don't like the feel of the disc brakes, maybe they need adjustment ?

Thinking avid elixir 5 for the front maybe ?
the brakes are shimano m446 hydraulic using mineral oil that the bike comes with.

pedals do you guys use the flat platform bmx style ?

Please explain more about the brakes. If they are spongy, they need bleeding, if the come too close to the bars before anything useful, you need to adjust the reach (stick an allen key down into where the lever attaches normally), if they aren't braking hard then maybe they need bedding in or are oily for some reason. I would have thought they are plenty good enough. I have 10 year old shimano disc brakes on mine and they are fine for everything except downhill courses more than 3 minutes when they start to fade due to heat.

Are these the bars on the end i've seen some people with? Been after a pair for a while, be nice for some quick turning.

No, I think you are thinking of bar ends. The ones I linked are replacements for the grips you already have.
Bar ends have gone out of fashion with most people using riser bars instead. Some XC riders still use them for leverage up hills and for just having a different position on long rides.

[wod]

Please explain more about the brakes. If they are spongy, they need bleeding, if the come too close to the bars before anything useful, you need to adjust the reach (stick an allen key down into where the lever attaches normally), if they aren't braking hard then maybe they need bedding in or are oily for some reason. I would have thought they are plenty good enough. I have 10 year old shimano disc brakes on mine and they are fine for everything except downhill courses more than 3 minutes when they start to fade due to heat.

i guess its just because the bike is new and will see how they go as the bike has a free checkup after 8 weeks i think.

I've not had time to wip the wheel reflectors off yet as riding yesterday on the trails they do make the front wheel especially feel odd, i dont need them.

my friends bike has juicy 5 brakes on it and you can feel the difference but he paid quite a bit for those so you would expect it and they have been worn in.

[SuperBeatBoy]

My shimano hydraulic disc brakes are awesome. It's my first time with discs, so I don't know if I'm speaking too soon time will tell. I know I got annoyed with adjusting vbrakes all the time.

[nonny]

I had to re-adjust my hydraulic brakes 3-4 times over the first few months so I would think this is just a settling in period and not to be hastily replacing anything until you've got some more miles on them.

The place I bought my bike from bled the brakes and set them up for me and they were bloody lethal when I first got them but over the next two weeks I felt them gradually begin to fade as I used them (in anger sometimes). But really all they needed was adjusting so I'd spend some time playing with the travel on them, find a setting you like and just keep adjusting weekly until they settle in.

Mine have been fine now for several months and I use my bike every day. The only thing I need to do now is bleed them again but given the usage I've had out of the bike that is par for the course.

[smouty]

Mine have been fine now for several months and I use my bike every day. The only thing I need to do now is bleed them again but given the usage I've had out of the bike that is par for the course.

I've bled mine once in about 5 years. You wouldn't bleed the brakes on your car that often either so I would guess you have an issue with a faulty seal or something.

[wod]

been out again on the bike for a light run through a local nature reserve and the brakes definately need bedding in, they are strong and are at times a bit full on.

another thing if i go over a bump etc i can hear one of the pads nearest the wheel rub on the disc as they seem a bit loose but i'm not worrying about it, this is on the front.

loving it though should have got a new bike years ago.