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    Yup I think a lot of people suggest making your own for that reason, but you lose out on that build quality.

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      So, my Hori Fighting Stick Alpha arrived today, I got the SF6 version. Being a massive Hori fanboy I'm surprised it's actually taken me this long to get one! Anyway, my initial thoughts....

      Even though the shell is plastic, I was actually surprised at just how weighty it actually is. It's also much larger than I thought it would be! I haven't put them side by side, but I reckon it's definitely bigger than a RAP N. It's big, but no too big and definitely not uncomfortable for lap play.

      The lever is absolutely fantastic. I'll take a Hayabusa over a Seimitsu or Sanwa any day, though that does put me in the minority. Everything feels so smooth and precise due to the smaller contact point on the pivot. The stock Hayabusa buttons I've not been a fan of as they always seemed too light and easy to accidentally press. The ones on this stick though, feel slightly stiffer, so maybe they're using a different switch in them, I just haven't taken one apart to check yet.

      Opening it up was easy and inside there is a sticker that's colour coded with which wire goes to which button. The quick disconnects now have a little tab you push and they come off a lot easier than in older sticks. 8 screws hold the top panel on, which you need to remove to change the artwork. Once that panel is off you have easy access to the metal control panel, which is easily removed by taking out the 6 screws. The lever harness comes with a 6 pin harness, so an optical Hayabusa lever can be installed. In fact the stick seems to have been designed with pure ease of customisation, which is briliiant for modders and should one like, a hitbox conversion should be easily doable if you can get a metal plate and matching plexi panel made up.

      Overall, it's a really good stick, the only drawback for me being that it uses the Noir layout and I prefer the Vewlix or 'Extended' Vewlix. Sure, this version is £200 - Not cheap by any means, but it really does feel like a well thought out unit and with the older model available for £100-£150 depending on whether you buy new or used, it's a premium stick at what is now a mid-range price.

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        To be released on the 3rd of August is the Sanwa JLX lever. In their own words, this is the successor to the JLF; improving a number of factors while still sharing the same mounting dimensions. It's being installed into a select pool of Japanese arcades in the run-up to the launch.

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          Originally posted by fuse View Post
          To be released on the 3rd of August is the Sanwa JLX lever. In their own words, this is the successor to the JLF; improving a number of factors while still sharing the same mounting dimensions. It's being installed into a select pool of Japanese arcades in the run-up to the launch.

          AWUK actually have launch day stock, if anyone cares.

          The Sanwa JLX-TP-8YT is a high quality joystick, manufactured in Japan by Sanwa Denshi Co. This is the joystick of choice for fighting game enthusiasts, especially Street Fighter fanatics.

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            Lever users dominate EVO.

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              I finally caved and bought a Brook Wingman FGC.

              It mimics a licensed PS4 fight stick so it works with any PS5 games that support licensed PS4 sticks, such as SF6.

              It also supports controllers that my Mayflash Magic-S Pro doesn’t. So far, I’ve tried:

              Hori Fighting Commander 4
              Retro-bit Saturn 2.4G
              8bitdo Arcade Stick (both 2.4G and wired)
              8bitdo M30 2.4G USB for Megadrive Mini (only the dpad and six face buttons worked. Shame, cos it’s my favourite pad!)

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                I spotted a classic on Amazon Japan and decided to order it.



                I'm thinking that I may put a JLX in it and swap the board with something faster and more compatible (something running GP2040-CE code) along with swapping the button config to the regular one rather than this Virtua Fighter focused one.

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                  The Razer Kitsune (their leverless, low-profile controller) is available for £249.99 at Amazon, for anyone interested. Just last night it was saying early October for delivery, whereas I see it's already bumped up to late September.

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                    Originally posted by fuse View Post
                    The Razer Kitsune (their leverless, low-profile controller) is available for £249.99 at Amazon, for anyone interested. Just last night it was saying early October for delivery, whereas I see it's already bumped up to late September.
                    Held onto this order and it ended up being October after all, though I'm glad I didn't wait until now to order seeing as they've since bumped the price to £299. Some pictures, inc. a side by side with a Qanba Obsidian 2.







                    First impressions are that it's a nice looking piece of kit! It's very slim, and I guess if you don't like the typical weight of an arcade stick on your lap this is definitely worlds apart from that? It's still a decent enough size to comfortably use and rest your hands on though - even with my big ol' paws I'm finding it quite accommodating. The LED base isn't too obnoxious, and just sort of slowly changes colour rather than pulsing away or anything. I believe you can adjust this if you connect it to a computer running the Razer software.

                    Don't have any particularly spicy or definitive takes on the buttons just yet, but they feel sensitive while also being pretty damn quiet. This may just be an unconscious side effect of me thinking of them as keyboard switches, and may change in time too, but I'm finding that I'm playing more like how I type (more controlled and thinking about efficiency) as opposed to the rougher and more heavy handed approach I take with arcade buttons.

                    One PSA is that supposedly the Kitsune doesn't work on PS4s, however from testing it seems to be fine with PS4 games played on the PS5 - I gave it a spin with Tekken 7, among others, and there was no issue. This is probably less of an issue at home with your own kit, but as something where I'd list its portability as a major plus point, it's a bummer that it's not going to play nice with PS4 setups.

                    As some more generalised thoughts on leverless controllers, I see straight away the advantage when quickly double-tapping a direction - like if you're wanting to dash, or do one of the many down down button inputs in SF6. When it comes to quarter circles and particularly double quarter circles, it feels like learning to release your presses in timely fashion is a really crucial habit to newly build. I definitely need some more practice so as to not screw up my super inputs. I've not yet braved a character with 360 inputs, but this feels like the ultimate test of suitability.

                    Part of the reason for this and probably the biggest adjustment is that the up button is at the bottom between left and right sides; I get the intent of giving you the option to jump with either thumb, but on the flipside I've caught myself resting my right thumb there and mentally thinking it's LK

                    One side use case is that the layout works really well as a controller for some rhythm games! If only there was a way to turn off the notes that need constant spinning of the analogue sticks, it'd be perfect for DJ Max Respect.

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                      Does anyone know where to source replacement Hex Pen screws in the UK? These are the screws that hold down the faceplate on a Madcatz Street Fighter stick.

                      I recently swapped out the stick and finding the balltop keeps spinning/become loose so I am constantly having to tighten it. I found there is a screw at the bottom of the stick I need to tighten, however I have threaded one of the screws and once I manage to get out of I need to replace it.

                      Tried Arcadeworld but the term came up with 0 hits.

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                        If its the TE stick you're referring to then a dome head hex screw is what you're after. You should be able to find quite a few about via ebay, or local hardware suppliers.

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                          Indeed, they'll be an M4 x 12mm (minimum) hex bolt. Standard ones have a smaller head than the ones that come with the TE so that's something to be aware of, not a big deal though.

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                            Thanks guys, it is a TES+ but I think the screws look the same. Now need to work out how to get the one that is threaded out. Seen the rubberband trick, had loads on then laying around but threw them all out recently as I am clearing out all my rubbish prior to moving.

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                              Are the ones you're replacing painted black by any chance? Replaced mine on the Chun-Li TES with all silver ones as the paint was coming away from them and it looked tacky.

                              The exact screws I got are not listed anymore on ebay but the order was for "M4(4mmØ) A2 Stainless Steel Flanged Button Head Bolts, Hex Socket Allen Screws" which cost me £1.02, if that's any help to you

                              Last edited by Adam; 06-11-2023, 15:35.

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                                You might be able to open the rear of the case and access the thread where it screws into the chassis, a pair of grips to unscrew there. Failing that as it a cap head you should be able to press in the next size of hex tool if the current shape rounds or cut a groove in it to get a flat blade driver on it. Good luck.

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