http://www.moredirt.co.uk/ << check here for trails near you
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i had a look at this site and there is a few local trails listed that i had forgotten about.Originally posted by charlesr View Post
i've already broke the bike in, bust up the pedals a little, well the little reflector things didnt last long
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yeah i was looking at them similar to what i used to have on my bmx years ago, i've still got it and looking at the pedals the thread size looks different.Originally posted by charlesr View Post
the shimano flat pedal looks good but is about 20 pound more than the dmr v8.
i've also been playing with the spring adjustment on the front forks as i'm quite heavy i thought i'd tighten the setting a little ?Comment
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Got a flat today, found a shard of glass embedded in my rear tyre. got to get a new tube now. :/Comment
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bummer.
wod: if you don't bottom the forks out once a ride, then you aren't getting your money's worth (this is probably not good advice - but I aim to have <1mm of dirt left on the stanchions at the end of a ride). When you sit on the saddle, the forks should sag up to 25% of their travel. Do you have rebound adjust? That's the most important - if it rebounds too fast, it'll ping you back into the air a bit, thus losing traction in mid corner bumbs and if it rebounds too slow, you won't be ready for the next bump. Just find a long bumpy corner and adjust the rebound until you think you cannot go any quicker around the corner! 10 mins setup for a year of happiness.
And yeah, bmx pedals have different threads. I actually think the DMR is expensive. The Wellgo would be just as good for a tenner.
I really want to try the B54s next. Look great but difficult to find unbiased reviews. Sealed bearings is a plus.Last edited by charlesr; 18-05-2012, 23:55.Comment
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charlesr, i'm not sure what that is, there is a adjustment on the left side of the fork and i have turned it a little and the forks stiffened up quite a bit as they were too springy maybe not the right word on my first couple of rides.
i have some wellgo pedals on the bike already but arent grippy enough for my large foot size 11 and i was looking at replacements some not too expensive like the wellgo copies and the dmr v8.
what is the difference between v8 and v12 pedals ?
those b54 pedals in the pic look larger than either of the v8/12 which will be ideal for people with larger feet.
Another thing, has anyone tried the slime stuff you can put in tyres to help with punctures ?Comment
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The V12s are the same size but have sealed bearings (longer life but heavier) and have slightly more grip (more pins). Only really worth getting the V12s if grip becomes a problem and in which case, there are better grippier pedals for the price.
The tube slime just gets you home (it flings slime into the holes). As soon as you get home, it will start to deflate as the slime drops to the bottom of the tyre. Don't bother. Get some serious tyres instead. I got the Bontrager XR4 (Team Issue version with the higher tpi wall thickness 120 instead of 60). I have never had a puncture with them and run the very low pressure. They also corner obscenely well and drift on the edge too. Not good in bad muddy conditions but fine in normal wet conditions. Expensive, but worth it. I was so impressed, for the winter I got the XRMuds which have also been amazing in the wet mud and even perform ok in the dry.Last edited by charlesr; 20-05-2012, 07:58.Comment
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What forks has your bike got? Can you find a manual for them online? If so, post a link and I'll give you some setup advice.Comment
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i like the look of those b54 pedals you mentioned as they are something different to the standard platform pedal everyone seems to have.
those tyres you mention, my bike came fitted with the Bontrager XR2 model tyres and they have been great over muddy sections and gravel, have a good tread so the mud loosens off them when on flat sections.
those XR4 have a more closed tread pattern unlike my XR2 tyres which are quite open and more likely to have a puncture, they dont make a 26x2.1 tyre so i should be able to get away with a 2.2 tyre ?Comment
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the front fork is sr xcm v3 100mm travel with remote lockout.Originally posted by charlesr View Post
on the suntour website i think its these i have
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As well as the closed tread (which doesn't shed mud very well but does prevent punctures), the sidewalls are double the number of threads per inch, so are more supple but more likely to get cut by rocks and flint. Still hasn't got any punctures though.
Look at your frame - how much gap have you got between tyre and frame? You should be able to guess the answer to your "get away with 2.2" question.
I looked up the XR2 tyres and you will probably find the XR4s are quite big all over, not just the width. They are pretty damn massive for a 2.2.
Also, you don't need to get both at once. You could try running one on the front for increased corner grip and keep the XR2 on the back.
The XR2 is meant to be a good tyre though, so don't jump ship too quickly. The XR3 is meant to be the all year around tyre so if you want to get one tire and never change it, get that.Last edited by charlesr; 20-05-2012, 07:59.Comment
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do you run the same tyre front and back ?Originally posted by charlesr View Post
well front i could put an XR4 tyre on there as there is plenty of clearance but back it could be tight and only be able to put an XR3 tyre on if its a 2.1.
will 2.2 tyres fit if the rim has had a 2.1 tyre on, is there little difference ?
I cant seem to find out much information on the parts on this bike, as i wanted to note it all down so i can buy replacement bits as and when needed.Comment
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Not much difference between 2.1 and 2.2 Any wheel that suits one will suit the other.
I have never actually run a different tyre front and back. I did some research on this a while back but have now forgotten it all!
However common sense suggests the following considerations:
If a tyre is particularly good at braking, you want that on the front if you are doing any downhill, but grip is probably more important.
Most punctures occur at the back (more weight), so if a tyre is good for that....
You do not want the front to slide, so grip grip grip at the front, but you can get away with rear slides, so think if there are other considerations for the rear like traction up hills or ease of high rolling speed or light weight for acceleration or etc...
Comfort - bigger = bouncier so big at the back if you have a hardtail and are a bit "princess and pea" but this is directly opposite in winter when you want a smaller tyre to collect less mud and cut through the mud to the hard stuff underneath. If you have full suspension, then you probably don't care about tyre comfort.Last edited by charlesr; 20-05-2012, 08:08.Comment
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I've had to go back and change my advice about TPI (threads per inch) for the sidewalls. Higher number = lighter more supple, so absorbs bumps better for more traction but is MORE prone to punctures. Sorry about that. It must be the thread pattern that has prevented me from getting any. There's no way I'd go back to a less supple tyre now apart from XC racing (I have some panaracer fire XC pros for that which have no grip in comparison lol)
Good article: http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb...-buyers-guide/Comment
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