"Post-processing" sounds way more advanced than where I'm at with photography, so I guess I'm fine for now not using it - probably need to get a bigger SD Card too. Cheers for the info mate.
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Those numbers are the lens length. Basically, the higher the number, the more zoomed in you are. With a lower number, you have a wider view. 50mm is (very very sort of) what we normally see.Originally posted by Rossco View PostQuick question, what do those number regarding to lenses mean!? The one I'm borrowing off a mate right now says 17.5-45mm. Whats it mean exactly?
Digital SLRs (apart from super-high end ones) have a multiplying factor of 1.6 on the Canons and 1.5 on the Nikons, which means that you have to multiply the lens length by that to find the practical length. There's a decent comparison here, and a further explanation here. So if you want something around a regular view of 50mm, you'll need a lens to be around 31mm. I tend to use a 28mm lens for this very reason.
There's a decent example here if you scroll down.
The bit that says f/2.8 or whatever is the minimum aperture size, or f-stop. That'll almost always be a single digit with a decimal point after it. That's a measurement of how much light the lens can potentially let in. A lower number means a wider aperture & more light, a higher number is a smaller aperture and less light. The more light you let in, the faster your shutter speed can be, which is useful for freezing movement and preventing camera shake blur on your pictures.Last edited by Magnakai; 09-05-2008, 13:45.Comment
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RAW is the raw data from the camera's sensor - no after shutter processing applied by the camera ( such as saturation, sharping, contrast ). It gives some finer control for fiddling post-process.Originally posted by spagmasterswift View PostComment
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So if the image doesn't receive any after shutter processing you have to do that manually using some software? Does that mean that if you take a picture with the landscape setting the RAW image will not have the benefits of that setting applied (I believe the blues and greens get enhanced slightly)? Or can you only take pictures in RAW with a manual setting?Comment
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The RAW file is the raw data as recorded by the sensor.
For the Canon 400D:
You can apply sharpness and saturation and colour tone profiles (either the default modes or a custom profile). These settings are applied to the RAW file but in canon's photo editing software you can still adjust them further ie slide them back to neutral or change them further. You then have to produce the JPEG yourself (which can be done batch wise in the editing software)
This gives you complete control of your images and at the same time allows you to modify settings if you need to tweak an image. It doesnt involve heavey post processing and means you never ever have to worry about colour temperature as it can be easily fixed from the RAW file.
The amount of processing required is minimal with the canon software as you can set up a batch process for one image then apply it to as many other images as you like. Gives you complete control of your jpeg so you can ensure the highest possible quality.
Shooting RAW can save you up to 1 stop in some situations if you under or overexpose, so for noobs like me it helps no end with getting more keepers.
The amount of post-processing is minimal and is nothing really to worry about once you get a feel for it a few times.Comment
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I'd absolutely agree with the above. Especially if you're using something like Lightroom, which makes working with RAW files a breeze. That's not to say that JPEGs are bad, but, in terms of image quality and room for adjustment and personal expression in the digital darkroom, RAWs are unquestionably better.Comment
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Thanks for the kind comments people. Oddly enough my mum said that photo looked like chocolate too. Combination of shallow water and a really long (28 second) shutter speed. Took ages to get right as I waited for just the right light. Stung, nettled and bit in the process but worth it as I think it's probably my best photo to date.
Regarding aperture - one other thing to bear in mind is that the narrower the aperture (so the larger the f-number) the greater the depth of field (as the light comes in from a more constrained angle). Of course as Magnakai says that requires a slower shutter speed for the same light - hence why you need a good flash for macro shots (most of mine are shot around the f30 mark unless I'm looking for a fading dof).
Oh and yes - raw all the way!
PeteJ - there's no way you're having my lens so I guess it's the babies. I'm free tonight....
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Check out this. A volcano in Chile has erupted for the first time in 9000 years, and the volcanic plume got lightning involved in it. Just look at the pictures.Comment
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Whoa that's like something out of a sci-fi movie!Comment
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Went to see a game at Wembley today. First time to the new stadium and very impressive it is. Couldn't shoot in the ground with my D80 (I had to do some sweet talking to avoid it being confiscated) but I did take this "alternative" view of the arch:
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Jesus Christ that's amazing stuffOriginally posted by Magnakai View Post
Some of them don't even look real.Comment
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Volcano pictures are insane. I always wondered how to capture lightning. I have my own ideas how to do it, but the storms in this country are so rare I guess a large potion of it could be luck. (not to mention that I wouldn't have my camera out in the rain
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Another great pic Ish, you are really good at framing these shots with that lens
Pretty boring snap from me but, one with nice bokeh:
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A portrait of my friend and his son. I took this last year - finally got round to posting it.
Shame the sky is blown out (it was very bright and mid-afternoon) but I think it captures their character and that rescues it! (imho at least!)Last edited by Ish; 11-05-2008, 18:05.Comment
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